3 Brass 3 Aluminum Nut Blanks 4 or 5 String Electric Bass or Banjo Guitar Blank

Description

If you don't see what you are looking for, let me know. I can get what you need.  FB Brass Nut and Saddle Bridge Blanks!
This listing is for a lot of
3 Br
ass & 3 Aluminum Nut Blanks
2"
x
3/16" x 3/8" or 50mm x 4.7mm x 9.5mm
This is a great replacement for many makes and models of electric bass guitar such as BC Rich, Yamaha, Schecter, Jackson, and Gibson etc, Probably everything with the exception of Fender instruments. These blanks are also appropriate for Banjo. 3/16" is a fairly common nut thickness for many makes and models of banjo if not all.
These are blanks! You need to carve string slots and customize these blanks for fit your particular instrument. These blanks should be long enough for any particular situation including your 5 string bass project. They are trim to fit.  Please measure what you have to determine exactly what you may need. If you need other dimensions, just ask.
Don't be afraid to make a nut from aluminum! Especially, if this is going to be your first attempts at carving a nut. It's very easy to grind, carve, file and buff. Just try it out first and get a feel for what to do. Buffed aluminum looks great with chrome hardware!  Then, once you have it mastered, you can embark onto your brass carving skills. It's up to you!
Carving nuts for bass and classical guitar are easy peasy compared to carving nuts for guitars. Since the string channels are nice and fat, you can readily find round files at your local hardware store. Someone recently pointed out to me that one could easily buy bass slotting files at any luthier shop. Sure! by all means do so if you choose. But, why go out and spend money on tools you may only use a few times? Are you going to be a professional luthier? Are you going to be using these tools on a day to day basis? If you are great! If not, it's probably best to try out what you might already have laying around the old garage first. Test it out on your aluminum and see how goes.
When I get a customer who complains their guitar, bass, banjo etc. wont stay in tune the primary reason is that the nut is grabbing the string. This is especially true on instruments with plastic nuts. These nuts are formed in an injection molding machine and aren't custom fitted to the instrument. But, in order for a manufacturer to offer you an instrument at rock bottom prices you get what you pay for. To see if your nut is grabbing your string all you need to do is, tune up the string, then take your finger and press it and pull it behind the nut vigorously! Then check to see if your string is in tune. If it's higher in pitch then you know there is significant friction at the nut. You will never ever be able to keep your guitar in tune especially if you do any string bending. This can even happen with a bass guitar. The more the string is played the more vibrations occur at the nut and the tension will loosen more and more, then your string is flat! So, you tune it up again and after a while, the same thing happens.  It's just plain and simple physics! All guitars are basses are outfitted with round wound strings (for the most part! I have used flat wound strings in the past but they aren't so common these days). The winding on the strings can grip a plastic nut more than you might imagine. Furthermore! The rear of the nut doesn't have a gradual drop off. So, the strings are being pulled at such an angle that the rear edge of the nut is snagging the wrap on the strings creating an even greater point of friction.
YOU NEED TO CREATE A BEARING EDGE!
Weather your instrument has a angled
headstock
or a Fender type straight back headstock you need to consider the angle at which the string has to travel to get back to the machine aka tuning key. Create a bearing edge at the rear of the nut, as if the channel is falling away from the string toward the
headstock
.
Just a few tips!
You are probably thinking, "why can't I just use graphite or silicone lubricant on the nut." That will help but I recommend using the same WD-40 you use to keep your strings and other hardware from corroding. The cleaner you keep your strings the longer they will last. FYI! Ebony and Rosewood is some of the hardest woods known to man. It doesn't contract and expand like most other woods. That's why it makes for such a great fret board material. It doesn't "soak" up anything! Remember, if you oil your fret board, all you are doing is making the surface oily. Oil, collects dust and other particulates from the air. It's like wiping your car interior down with Armor-All. Sure, it looks nice and shiny. But, at the end of the day what you are doing is putting on a dust attractant. You aren't protecting squat! Just clean your guitar! Cleaner is better! Oily isn't necessarily better! Just oily!
Stop cleaning the body of your guitar with furniture and wood treatement. Does the body of your guitar have a protective coating or clear coat of any kind? Sure it does! So guess what? It's not wood anymore. Get some Mequiar's FINE-CUT CLEANER! A friend of mine turned me onto this some time ago. Yeah! it's for automotive applications but there isn't anything that works better! This stuff  IS a mild abrasive. Just use a shamwow or or a generic wool type shammy or better yet, I know you have an old sock! Wipe on a nice thin coat and let it dry. Then use some "elbow grease" and wipe it down. You aren't buffing! This stuff is so fine, I wouldn't consider it more than a great cleaner! UNLESS you are going to use it to buff your car! The process is a bit different.
If you like a smoother feel on your guitar neck, you should probably clean your hands
thoroughly first. I've found that using a simple anti-bacterial hand cleaner works great! That will dry your hands out enough so that you aren't gripping or slipping on your guitar neck with the palm of your hand because they are oily or sweaty! Works wonders with a cue stick too.
Please ask any questions you may have.  Thank You!
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